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<br /> 4 GOOG�LE S CAFF 50��ye�f;Richa�d Huber gnlls vegetables,left,<the corppany�cafeter�a serves 400 purely local meals eacli day.;;
<br /> .,-! ., �,r SrY tYL $ �'Y:r^ ,.: C^ F .: 1 �� ' _ � t-.��k' :4 '+;!��.n i�tk>s-� rs t,f +c. ti.. T�.` �j � .
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<br /> ,. �F' " �who�insp�rednmanylacal�achy�sts u�nth_Cainzng Hoine to Eat,it ;� What would�replace my breakfast cerealP How inuch wouTd
<br /> me�ns eatuig�ttun a 250 m�le radms of,lus Anzonahome all tlus;cost?I wasdt sure Solike eve-'�one else,Y went to '
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<br /> x ,. , , IVlany who,,blog at a s�te called eatlocakhallenge com aun�fOr Gao e� . <' {
<br /> c._ � i �u a..• � i.. �nfyt��,P T, i .'r �. Y]�n: Yr m 'a.sfi: '�' i1 �'' � �rat`rt , c ,.� .
<br /> a stncte'r`, 1Q0 mile ti�et>-
<br /> r t. ' yy ,My�favonte,defiruhon oflocal comes•:from Columbias . �sM ' � � � K ' 4:``
<br /> Gussow,a reporte=fdr 1�NtE m the 1950s:,who went-on to;be t meany t lo�erallywent to Googie to the
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<br /> comea�local ea#ingpioneer'For25yeazs,Gussowhas� H�k ' eompanysMoun�amView;�Cal�fy'.��puS.
<br /> .lectured,on the envu�orimental(and"culinary)disadvantages � � ';� - •
<br /> 't; . . _.
<br /> �of r�lyuig'on a:global�food•supply.'Her.most oft quoted �` I hadaread•that one:of Google sznew cafeterias;Caf��150;'� i �
<br /> •statisticSs that'stupping�a strawberry from Califomia to New .., ;: sen�ed only�food ongiiiatirig within a I50-mile`radius of
<br /> York�requires 435 calories of fossil fiiel but provides ttie'�� Mouritaui v'ew:I°Imew this radiiis included a glorious fund
<br /> eater with only.5tcalories of nutrition.In her memoir, '� . of:farins;`ranclies and fisheries,�the Salinas Valley food'slied•:
<br /> Gussow�offer's this rather,poetic�meaning of local; `Witliin a� = that'Steinbeck rriade famous:in East of Eden:I aLso lmew that
<br /> day's leisurely drive of our homes.['This]distance is entirely as one of the most successful companies of the era,Google
<br /> arbitrary.But then,so was the decision made by others long - could afford not only�to pursue such a whimsical culinary
<br /> ' ago'that we ought to have produce from all ideal as.total locality but also to do so in the form
<br /> azound the world." • ' � ,'of a fine=di.ning restaurant.(Cafe 150 is one of
<br /> On his blog,Whole Foods'Mackey has used ll employee eateries on the Google campus,all
<br /> a radius of 200 miles to mean local.Measuring of which famously charge nothing.) .
<br /> from my home,that includes not only much of � Still,I wanted to see how Caf�150's
<br /> ,. New York State,New Jersey and Connecticut � � , . founding che�Nate Kelle�managed:to serve
<br /> • but also parts of seven other Northeastem states. `� '*. more than.400 purely local meals a day.Most
<br /> Such a large:�ood shed produees a great variety '•� , chefs simply,place orders with suppliers.Good
<br /> of fruits and vegetables,and Whole Foods has cooks:unclezstand that quality and origin aze
<br /> said,it wants to increa'se its percentage of local related:because�of the toll extracted:by.transpor-
<br /> produce.(Of the roughly$1 billion in produce : - � �_tation;�but�insthe�end;if Emeril Lagasse wants to
<br /> the company sold last year,16.4%came from lacal source's, serve wild salmon°one night,he can just order it from Alaska.
<br /> up from 14.9%in 2005.)Last yeaz Mackey announced;a�'' �� Keller,�'who'r'ecenfly'becaine the chef at another Google
<br /> �$10 million loan prograrn for local farmers. restaurant,couldn_t.d'o that.Although just a freckly 30-year-
<br /> _ �But;Ivlackey also:lmows that most Americans.willnever-, old;he had to�plan his znenus-the wayrpreindus)rial cooks,v:
<br /> eat a�purely�local diet."Orie of the challenges of.being an�,^_�'� ' � did,'a.ceo�cl�ng,to whaEever�locaTvendors:offered that.day •�
<br /> retailer is�you�don't•want�to�offend:people;°Mackey told�me. k�:=`:1�iese guys have°to be so'�flexible with�their menus,iYs
<br /> "Some customers want to.eat apples year-round;and the�re unreal; said Cafe 150's fishmonger,Tim,Zamborelli of Toda}�s
<br /> willing to paymore.�for°aNewZealand apple."�Finally,.lie�',"r;- Catchvin San�Jose,'Calif..`-We�haveto find out wha�s comiiig in
<br /> offered:ad�fense of;the global food economy:."VVhen I^was;: on that�parLieular day_and;let thein�lmow so they�can.change"
<br /> r �.• .a liitle.boy-Pm 53 yeazs old-being able to get oranges from Cafe��150,wluch opened a�year;ago,can�serve no shnmp..or �:�
<br /> F'loridaorproduce;from•ariotherstatewasaverybig�deal �''� s`callops,since�theycan'tbe:foundinithe°area,and�tunawas � �
<br /> ' because�the local=prod'uce availability where I lived in*i'�� availalile'orily from Augusttlirough;October,when currents� '
<br /> Houstori wasn't great People back then didn t haye�neazly as broiigTitbluefins info the radius:+The day:I•visited,�Ke'Iler°�"�
<br /> diverse a diet as we do now,and you might aLso point out hadn'tjleamed what vege4able he would be serving until the
<br /> their�life spans weren t as long:' night before.(He got baby red chard.) '
<br /> That made me wonder if purely local eating was even It's a radically new way of thinldng about cooldng
<br /> possible-or healthy.Could I get everything I needed�from because it°s So very old.But I was surprised to learn that
<br /> the-Northeast?What would I have to give up?For gu'sta:tory � Caf�150�was°the brainchild not of some'anticorporate
<br /> reasons,I long ago stopped eating out of sea'son-I have no artisan:but of John Diclanan,51;Google's food-service:man-
<br /> interest in those<hard Canadian tomatoes my Whole Fqods- agei;Dicla�ian;not onlyworked`far=14:�years at the.food:giant
<br /> <.was selling in February.-But would I have to forgo coffee?� • Marriott,�h'e;even trained°fligtit attendants=to cook-plarie�: •
<br /> TIME,MARCH 12,2007 47
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