|
'�£�..�a46�l�,.�i'�''�2'fi`�,�`,��� s`k.4�"������ �� ' . �.. i,. ..;�s = _
<br /> d4 ��3 i ,.a�`..;�_ >r. _.i; ' r�� �~.
<br /> , � Y�.G�Zw��(..5���� � • ? � �t, �`:'r' .t'.
<br /> �``Y �� y .. � �v s>�`!T� .� '�L�• �T��tgry,{t' ��.
<br /> y� ...-^ �3'f�i:a7 :Y
<br /> �• :�:' ��.
<br /> �.. y`
<br /> er_: �t;�
<br /> - �,�
<br /> , i ... �s, g1�i�,2p� �c:;p*' L�'.y�{�s.•�s f- � ..
<br /> ' �•+1 +gZt ���'� :i�k E��[i �� F ��
<br /> #:.; ,, � �,.?�,,�a.
<br /> � �� <
<br /> �: _: � � ��
<br /> -t�C: + ,r` a :�y t�`3� �,�;
<br /> � �
<br /> s,�X _�� q.,T�S� ���;�n
<br /> ��.� y?Y�;
<br /> � �.r.��';'�Z �.
<br /> r'C:'i.
<br /> ��1 L!:'��:.I..., t
<br /> �
<br /> � L + x� �����
<br /> W � y' ��,
<br /> f p�
<br /> �' �"�f.',x.G'.
<br /> C; �� S"
<br /> LL',. y �� h�ke
<br /> �z
<br /> . x �, �.;
<br /> o'
<br /> o' � �t
<br /> w • _ . '
<br /> � '8� � r .`{�f.
<br /> w 4� C� �
<br /> j (� 1:.... -
<br /> Z. f�` �1 '`�
<br /> 2� ,F� /'" •� J
<br /> W.
<br /> y' ;,�� �, ,
<br /> W
<br /> m
<br /> _..__.-..�..-..�..-.. . : ..._.. . ... ....... . " .
<br /> . ....... ........:�.�......,.. ...._ . .. .... __
<br /> Y
<br /> � -.: . .,.: �..., ... ...,....-. . .�._. T,,r,r._ �
<br /> WINDFLOWERFi4RM:;Ted:Blomgren�runs a CSAfarm in Valley Falls,N.Y.;his sons Nathaniel and lacob gather eggs iri�the chicken coop
<br /> �
<br /> food.I was:curious how:he:had creafed=sqch a radical . atways serve beef,sinee the quality and availability.of steers in
<br /> restaurant the Northeast aze uneven. �'
<br /> Diclanan says he was inspired by chef Ann Cooper,whose Cafe 150 has access to local beef from Bassian Farms in �'
<br /> 2000 book,Bitter Haruest,is well described by its subtide:A San Jose,Calif.,but the restaurant can t obtain everything it �
<br /> Che}'s Perspective on the Hidden Dangers in the Foods We Eat needs from the valley.Take salt"There are salt flats a �
<br /> and What You Can Do About It.Cooper,who now runs the ac- quarter-mile that way;'said Keller,pointing to the horizon,
<br /> claimed meal program of the Berkeley,Calif,public schools, "but the}�re for industrial purposes:'So he buys salt"off the ;��
<br /> writes passionately against industrialized fazms that"inhabit a truck;'from a food.-service deliverer. <�
<br /> flattened landscape dotted not with trees, � Still,apart from such staples,Cafe 150 is ,�
<br /> farnihouses[and]animals...but with huge livi.ng up to its name.It never serves tropical ��
<br /> motorized vehicles:'After meeting her,Diclunan fruits,and it has planted lemon and lime.trees �'
<br /> began to.go to farmers'markets. ' ,� just:outside to ensure local citrus.The restaurant �
<br /> ' When Diclanan arrived:at Google in 2004, �',,;, grows many of its own herbs and makes its.own �
<br /> he says, organic was:the cool thing;:and the � ketehup:;Andlast fall Cafe�150 jarred:tomatoes� .
<br /> compan�s chefs were buying.organic whenever � ;;; '. and fruit=so that,even though it's March,Googlers �
<br /> theycould=even if;that:meant fiying,in Chilean �'' can get a:taste ofthe local harvest;every:day.��� t�
<br /> nectarmes.•,Diclanan worked,with,the;team to . �' Imaginetthat:a company as ostentatiouslyhip.as
<br /> write pew,standards that;place local:before , .c �gle o nning fruit in its:kitch'ens ;, . �
<br /> orgaazuc•for all:Google eateries �`You°re°u'singX %��p3w� ti.���' . � � '
<br /> amount of jet fuel to get it here,and that'doesn't make • ���,i��o al.ig�p,.���•t 0���
<br /> sense;he says."Soforget.thenectarines.Buysomethinglo-. tl L�i Uia i 1
<br /> .
<br /> cal.Get some plums:'Of course,�his:doesn't work�in,'say, . �y Q]�j���{j��{����'�7 !
<br /> Dublin,where Diclrnian also�helped set up a Google caf�. ' . �
<br /> ("Everything is flown m there, he said.)When I,asked if he Following Cafe 15U's•lead,I decided to keep basic dry gaods
<br /> thought a restaurant;as shzctly local as Caf�150 would be like coffee,chocolate and�spices.•But sinee I have no. ; i
<br /> possible anywhere o.utside cen�al Cahfomia;<he answered, '� interest in gard'eriing.(and'no,yard,*for.thatmatter,=,I livein: �
<br /> glumly, PXObably not; ,� T w , �t;� ,�� °�� ,,;?'' , ; : . ' an apartrnent),�I�needed asource of pioduce.nI.find farmers'
<br /> �s ' .:But others are'tiying�Resburants�m CinqueTerre,in . : mazkets inconveriient,�if:only:because.you have to.pay:each
<br /> Portland,lVIaine,to IvIozza in 3�os Angeles are":run by coqks • farmer separately:for:items,:which_can mean a lot.of.waitirig
<br /> who:shive always to��dlocal'products first Some chefs are • in�t�ie cold:vThen I heardabout the farm shares run by ��' :
<br /> not only buyinglocally but actually gtowuig}he food.The Community�3upported Agnculture(esn)programs. ' � i '
<br /> � ,
<br /> two Blue HiII,"restaurants m NewqYork—one in�Vianhattan They sounded;a httle lefty:to:me at firs��but it�tums out .- '
<br /> and the otherim,Pocanhco Hills buy less Ythan'20%of their esns are a wond"erfuIly>market driven idea.;you join:uvith others �
<br /> ingredients from outside�the New York region;Saccorduig to� in.your commuriity,to invest.in aloeal farm.;At the beginning-of
<br /> chef Dan BaTrber.Much of bo#h reshduiants?fooii(mcluduig all the season,�members pay:the fazmer;a<l,u`mp;sum;:Eaeh,veelc,�t I
<br /> the ctuckeri and pork)�sz�a�sed on about 20 acres next to the .• or:perhaps,once a month in�the winter,the-farm deliversfresh �
<br /> .. � ,-
<br /> Pocaphco�iills location In the 333�years suice;the farm'was :: � vegetabl'e5,(and,!formore money,ateins I�cefiiut,,eggs and�r;us�: f
<br /> ]aunched,Baiber.l�as•;become,one of;the nations most���f , flowers)toa central location Pnces, widel .de , ndui �
<br /> :�Y- Y Pe. g;,: g
<br /> eloguent pro-loeal spokesmen,not least because he makes � . ' on�where;you hve.�The csn in tl}e 1VIotkHavenneigtiliorhoad- f
<br /> local;eahng pxofitable,(and deliraous=h�s restaurants�vin Y, .• of the Bronx;costs just$220;for five:=months;for those,�thta:':. �
<br /> r"aves)FBuf�his committ�ent�to locality�means�thatBarber can t low;uicome,(foocl stamps accepted,).i�he csniun byAngelic;r.t: �
<br /> 2 .
<br /> ��t � , �
<br /> " f`� • �
<br /> �,7 �; . TIME;:MARCH.12,2007
<br /> rt��T -.:..� � � , • ' � . . � . ' • :I
<br /> ._ ..t
<br />
|