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HomeMy WebLinkAboutRe: moisture problems � � °� �o o������ � � CITY of ORONO ,� � �� �,.. � � �';�'+� � � ti Municipal Offices �,� �:�G~ ' Street Address: Mailing Address: `9$EgKOg' ' 2150 Kelley Parkway P.O. Box 66 Orono, MN 55356 Crystal Bay, MN 55323-0066 February 16, 2001 Valerie Peterson 1125 North Arm Drive Mound, MN 55364 RE: Moisture Problems at 1125 North Arm Drive Dear Mrs. Peterson: This letter is to address problems discussed in our meeting at your home on 2/15/Ol. The problems you showed me (with the exception of the front door) are all due to excessive moisture in the home. Enclosed far your review is information down loaded from the MN Energy Info. Center on the subject. All the problem areas you showed me were due to the condensation including the water stains at the recessed lighting cans. These problems are not caused by the way the home was construction or the materials used. New construction is much tighter these days and the moisture is trapped in the home. If the moisture level is reduced and exhaust fans are used when showering and cooking the problems will most likely go away. It would be a good idea to clean the mildew from the windows before it causes further damage. I contacted the builder and discussed my findings and informed him of the front door problems. I feel this is the only responsibility of the builder at this time. If you have any questions or if I can be of further assistance please feel free to contact me at my office(952) 249-4600. Sincerely, . ` ^ L.,L,z f_� c"�'Y�'z�7 Lyle Oman Building Official cc: Terry Build Construction/Tom Terry 340 Leaf Street Long Lake, MN 55356 Enclosures: Energy Info. Center pownload rd Telephone(952)249-4600 • Fax(952)249-4616 www.ci.orono.mn.us ` l�ixit-Moisture Problems Page 1 of 6 >� 011E CLiCK� �uoa�t? Asaur Us NFws �r �e�tsJ aD"°� AWAIi Corrtxe�r Us Rar.�ss5 Lic�rses P�vaucer�ct� , � , Moisture Problems -- Condensation ENERGY INFO ""• " • :"" `° '��--� on Windows CENTER ,,..._ r `'0f1n'`'�"`s � e,~ Winter is lon in Minnesota, and windows GO TO: - $ Home Enerqy are important here. During those many cold Guides h-_:pinq ihe Liqhts On � months, windows are our link to the outdoors,the way to Guide Request f�1�;�ern Technoloqy Form Spedallv for Builders bring in the sunshine and broaden our view beyond the Ice Dams four walls. Unfortunately, all too often the view is ; ,;,,. ��,"U`.°a;3 clouded b moisture. �''� ��,��G��Fo,�cv y Ti� of the*Month Conservat�on FUrnace& Boiler tune_up En,rc:s Lin�.s CO Danqer ��. i�' � �,.�u�" Sub-topics: — "� �` ��y'� E�erqv Delivery II��I ' .. .i . . � . ,. . � .. �� .�..�:Y��..... : . � __ - _-___--___ �. M .�<. • � i WII � .. . . �'� . 1 � • � I � • �`�" 'I! + � �, ., •�.�a• " �= Back to . - New windows, ice at bottom This page was last modified on 2/9/O1 1 have trouble with all my windows having three to four inches of ice or �4Tcu , condensation at the bottom. The windows are double paned, crank-out, two � T�` years old. We have a natural gas furnace. Does the furnace put moisture into If you have problems the air? The humidity in the house is 40. What do you suggest? with this page please contact the ___ . _ The windows you have purchased should be resistant to most condensation except in extreme conditions of temperature or humidity. The humidity level in __ ' �ixit-Moisture Problems Page 2 of 6 � �rsurance level would be higher than in a home heated by a conventional furnace. � MN Relav Services Notarv Public ; Petrofund ' Sudden moisture problems should always be seen as a possible warning that a Real Estate furnace or water heater is malfunctioning. Improper exhaust or a leaking heat Resid. Bldg. Cont ' exchanger can add combustion gases, including moisture,to your home. Buy Securities ' �electronic carbon monoxide (CO) detector with a UL listing. A CO detector Telecommunications is a "must" in an home with a as or oil fired a liance, fire lace, or wood Unclaimed Property Y g PP P Weiqhts & Measures stove. Consumer Pubs � �ink Center To reduce window condensation,you need to lower the humidity level by Home eliminating sources of excess moisture and increasing ventilation. Two major sources of indoor moisture are occupants' activities and the home's foundation. � Cooking, bathing, laundry, and similar activities add small to moderate amounts of water in relatively short periods of time. Using bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans reduces moisture from these sources. Basement walls may appear dry,but they can be a powerful and constant source of moisture. Try this test: Drape one or two of the foundation walis with a sheet of polyethylene film 4 or 6 mils thick and seal on all sides. If dew collects between the foundation and the film, and at the same time window condensation decreases,the basement is the likely source of your moisture � problems. Recommendedpublications: [3asement Insulation. 1-1ome Moisture, VVindo��s �u�cl I)u��r; Back to beginning of_^or New storms, low visibility The moisture problem I have with my windows is bad enough in cold(zero) weather that I can't see out. I have a humidistat on my gas hot air furnace and I do change the setting to accommodate the oirtside temperature. I just bought new storms with low-e glass. The moisture forms on the inside of the storms. I've asked window people for advice and haven't gotten any help. I now wish 1 had bought new windows, not just storms. Thanks for any help you � can give. I want to see out! Some condensation on your storm window may be normal. Adjust the � humidifier setting downward and see if there is any reduction in condensation. If there is no change,turn off the humidifier. If this adjustment works, your humidistat may need to be reset. You can have this done as part of your furnace cleaning and tuning. If the humidistat adjustment produces no change,the problem may be with your windows. Both interior and exterior windows leak air. Your new storm is . tighter, allowing less air leakage,but warm air and moisture from the inside continue to leak through the interior window and then condense onto the inside of the storm. Tightening your interior or prime window will likely reduce moisture and air leakage. Weatherstripping weazs out, needing repair or replacement over time. Check the weatherstripping in the sash tracks. If it is a spring metal, you may "re-spring" the metal: Place a ruler between the track and weatherstripping, gently pry the metal outwards, and lift away from the http://www.commerce.state.mn.us/pages/Energy/InfoCenter/FixItlfixit04.htm 2/16/O 1 � I�ixit-Moisture Problems Page 3 of 6 , track. You may see a bit more spring to the metal. Check the weatherstripping at the meeting rail, where the upper and lower sashes meet. Try to re-spnng the metal here as well. You may need to replace your weatherstripping. Recommended publications: C`aull:in�� a�Id �Veatherstl�ippin17. ��'i�ldo���s a�t�l I)oocs Back to beginning of or Triple pane windows, with frost buildup I had new windows installed.• double pane wood on the inside, single pane aluminum on the outside, giving me triple pane windows. I also had a new picture window installed, which has double pane glass. The picture window has about two inches of frost buildup around the bottom and about a quarter of the way up the sides. The rest of the windows fog up between the wood- framed panes and on the inside of the aluminum window: Is this normal or are they all leaking air? Frost or sweat on the windows comes from a significant temperature difference between inside and outside air and the amount of humidity indoors. The greater the temperature difference, and the higher the humidity,the more likely the problem. In very cold weather, a certain amount of frost may be inevitable, but in most cases moisture buildup on windows can and should be avoided. In the long run, moisture can ruin window frames and other building materials. Because your new windows are tighter and more energy efficient, more humidity is trapped indoors waiting to condense on cold surfaces. At the same time,there may be too much uncontrolled air leakage around the window frame, if the area was not sealed properly after installation. This could explain the moisture on the inner surface of the storm window. Remedies include caulking and weatherstripping any cracks betweeri the window and the wall. Adding exhaust fans or other ventilation devices is a good way to keep humidity down. Make sure that exhaust fans are equipped with well insulated ductwork. Also,whenever adjusting household ventilation, make sure that the air supply is adequate for your combustion appliances, such � as the furnace,water heater, and fireplace. For more immediate frost control on the storm windows, consider opening the weep holes, located at the bottom of the storm window frame. Or, prop open the storm window about 1/4 inch. This would provide more moisture relief and still maintain most of the storm window's performance. Recommended publications: C'aull:in�,� �111CI �����UI1lfSLl'1���1111�!, H011lt �Ioistur�. ���in�lu���s �in�l U����r� � � Back to beginning of or I can't open the door unless I use a biow dryer to melt the ice... I live in an apartment. Since my skin and nose get so dry from the air during the winter, I purchased a couple of small humidifiers for my living room and bedroom. I've had the humidiry level at about 40 percent by the http://www.commerce.state.mn.us/pages/Energy/InfoCenter/FixIdfixit04.htm 2/16/O 1 ' �ixit-Moisture Problems Page 4 of 6 . recommendation of the manufacturer of the humidifiers. If I let the humidiry level drop below 40 percent, it feels too dry. The problem is that since the ti��e�rther has gotten very cold the past few days, there are terrible ice buildups along the bottom of the windows and along the sliding glass door in the living room. 1 can't open the door unless I use a blow dryer and melt all of the ice, which builds up again by the end of the day. The apartment is heated centrally by a baseboard heater along the floors of the rooms. What is causing this to happen?Is there anything I can do to stop the ice from building up? Recommended humidity levels present a conflict for most Minnesotans. Our personal health and comfort are well served when living in humidity levels between 40 and 50 percent. The problem is our homes, apartments, and commercial buildings can't tolerate these humidity levels. Humidity above 35 percent can lead to major damage to roofs, attic areas, and walls. The ice buildup on your windows indicates too much humidity and is a signal that some insulation or wall damage will likely occur. To avoid ice buildup,you will have to cut back on the use of the humidifier. The following table provides humidity guidelines for most homes and apartments with single pane windows and storm doors. Homes with newer windows may be able to carry higher humidity levels. Use condensation on your window or patio door as an indicator of an acceptable humidity level. Outdoor Temperature Maximum Indoor Relative Humidity -20 or below 15 percent -20 to -10 20 percent -10 to 0 25 percent 0 to 10 30 percent 10 to 20 35 percent 20 to 30 40 percent Finally, I recommend against using a dryer to melt ice on the sliding glass door. This can create a "hot spot" on the glass or at the edge of the door, stressing the insulated glass and possibly causing a break in the insulating glass seal. Recommended publications: 11,����c \-l�>i�ture. ���indc���s ancl Dc�c,r� Back to beginning of or_ Adding ventilation I am very concerned about ice and moisture buildup on our windowsills. Our ' home on a lake is seven years old and the probfem is constant during the winter. Experts told us the moisture ticas due to all the sheetrock and hvo fireplaces being built in the house and that it was temporary. We have used portable dehumidifiers and had little result. My husband blames the dozen green plants I keep inside. The moistzrre has ruined the windowsills-- turned them black along the bottoms and lower sides. Do we need to put some type of air exchange into our system? Our house is well built and well insulated, but this problem is very worrisome. http://www.commerce.state.mn.us/pages/Energy/InfoCenter/FixIt/fixit04.htm 2/16/O1 ' Fixit-Moisture Problems Page 5 of 6 Due to better building practices,better building materials, upgrades in the building code, and homeowner's weatherization efforts,houses over the past ten years have become "tighter." While this has made the newer homes much more energy efficient, it has also led to moisture problems in homes lacking necessary mechanical ventilation. Here are two options for adding mechanical ventilation: � One: Install a quiet two-speed fan in the attic that will exhaust 100 to 150 cubic feet per minute. The fan should be controlled by a timer to run at low speed whenever the house is occupied, and to automatically switch to high speed during the more active times in your household. The fan should pull air . through sealed ductwork from the bath and kitchen, excluding the range hood exhaust system. The cost for an exhaust-only ventilation system ranges from $500 to $1,000. If you have a fuel-fired water heater or a fireplace,take precautions to prevent back drafting of combustion products by providing a combustion air inlet for both appliances, a booster fan on the water heater, and tight-fitting doors for the fireplace. Two: Install a heat recovery ventilator(HRV), also called an air-to-air heat exchanger. Since these units require routine filter cleaning, they should be � located in the basement. This will require installing some ductwork throughout the house,which adds extra expense in a finished home. The HRV should also have a quiet two-speed fan,but since it recovers heat all the time,the fan is often run continuously at low speed. These systems cost about$1,000 to $2,000. Since an HRV is a "balanced" system, backdrafting of your fuel-fired appliances should not be much of a concern. Adding mechanical ventilation should greatly reduce your moisture problem and improve your indoor air quality. At very cold temperatures, however, you can still expect some condensation on your windows, since it is difficult to keep the surface of the glass warm. Having better performing "low-e" windows, an airtight inner storm window, or shrink-wrap plastic applied on your windows will help, but will not replace the benefits of ventilation. Recommended publications: I l:�m� \f�,i��u,�c. ��`indc,��s nnd �)c�����; Back to beginning of or_______ _ . Bathroom moisture How can you determine if a bathroom needs venting for moisture?•A family member has a large Victorian type house built in 1900. It has a boiler/radiator type heating and the house tends to be dry in the winter. Recently a shower was installed in the bathroom, which, of course,produces moisture. As soon as the bathroom door is opened the moisture in the air clears, but a layer of ice coats the window. If left undisturbed, the moisture from the window dissipates eventually. We do not want the window frame to rot, but do not know if it is wise to install a vent with fan. Could that produce other problems? Would just wiping the window with a towel be sufficient? What would be the best solution? Since your moisture problems occur in only one room and are primarily http://www.commerce.state.mn.us/pages/Energy/InfoCenter/FixIt/fixit04.htm 2/16/O1 ' �ixit-Moisture Problems Page 6 of 6 . � � focused on a particular window,I suggest treating that window rather than going to the expense of adding a bathroom exhaust fan., Simply wiping the window with a towel will not prevent moisture damage to the window sill. Instead, I would install shrink-wrap plastic to the window(on the inside)to prevent steam from reaching the cold window and condensing. The plastic can be removed in the spring and re-applied each fall, as this is a wintertime problem. If you seal several windows,blocking escape routes for heat and moisture,you may need an exhaust fan to reduce moisture buildup in the air. In that case, you must make sure that your furnace and water heater have an adequate combustion air supply to prevent backdrafting of combustion gases into your home. Recommended publications: Combustion Air, Home Moisture, Windo�vs a�ld I)c,c�i-: Back to beginning of or_ A frosty storm door 1 bought a storm door. It frosts up on the inside when the weather freezes. The storm door is next to a wood inner door which is the entry to a front porch. My old storm door didn't frost up on the inside. This morning I could barely open the storm door. What is wrong? Enclosed porch areas are prone to frost accumulation. A door opening from inside to a cold porch allows indoor humidity to escape into a closed space where it condenses on cold surfaces. If the weatherstripping on the wood door next to the storm door is worn or absent,moist air can leak into the space between tne interiur uui,r aiiu siuriii uuur. Your old storm door may have had a looser fit than the new door. Your tight- fitting new door traps the moist air in the area between the storm and wood door, causing frost to accumulate on the metal storm door. Most storm doors have adjustable sweeps at the bottom of the door. Adjust the door bottom up, providing an opening at the bottom of the door where the moist air can escape � to the outside. To keep warm moist air from leaking into the space between the wood and storm doors, check the weatherstripping on the wood door and upgrade if necessary. Recommended publications: ('aull:in�� and ��%�ath�r,U•ippin�_. �Vinclo��s an�l I)��c�r�� Back to beginning of or _ http://www.commerce.state.mn.us/pages/Energy/InfoCenter/FixIdfixit04.htm 2/16/O 1