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' Fixit-Moisture Problems Page 5 of 6 <br /> Due to better building practices,better building materials, upgrades in the <br /> building code, and homeowner's weatherization efforts,houses over the past <br /> ten years have become "tighter." While this has made the newer homes much <br /> more energy efficient, it has also led to moisture problems in homes lacking <br /> necessary mechanical ventilation. Here are two options for adding mechanical <br /> ventilation: <br /> � One: Install a quiet two-speed fan in the attic that will exhaust 100 to 150 <br /> cubic feet per minute. The fan should be controlled by a timer to run at low <br /> speed whenever the house is occupied, and to automatically switch to high <br /> speed during the more active times in your household. The fan should pull air <br /> . through sealed ductwork from the bath and kitchen, excluding the range hood <br /> exhaust system. The cost for an exhaust-only ventilation system ranges from <br /> $500 to $1,000. If you have a fuel-fired water heater or a fireplace,take <br /> precautions to prevent back drafting of combustion products by providing a <br /> combustion air inlet for both appliances, a booster fan on the water heater, and <br /> tight-fitting doors for the fireplace. <br /> Two: Install a heat recovery ventilator(HRV), also called an air-to-air heat <br /> exchanger. Since these units require routine filter cleaning, they should be <br /> � located in the basement. This will require installing some ductwork throughout <br /> the house,which adds extra expense in a finished home. The HRV should also <br /> have a quiet two-speed fan,but since it recovers heat all the time,the fan is <br /> often run continuously at low speed. These systems cost about$1,000 to <br /> $2,000. Since an HRV is a "balanced" system, backdrafting of your fuel-fired <br /> appliances should not be much of a concern. <br /> Adding mechanical ventilation should greatly reduce your moisture problem <br /> and improve your indoor air quality. At very cold temperatures, however, you <br /> can still expect some condensation on your windows, since it is difficult to <br /> keep the surface of the glass warm. Having better performing "low-e" <br /> windows, an airtight inner storm window, or shrink-wrap plastic applied on <br /> your windows will help, but will not replace the benefits of ventilation. <br /> Recommended publications: I l:�m� \f�,i��u,�c. ��`indc,��s nnd �)c�����; <br /> Back to beginning of or_______ _ . <br /> Bathroom moisture <br /> How can you determine if a bathroom needs venting for moisture?•A family <br /> member has a large Victorian type house built in 1900. It has a boiler/radiator <br /> type heating and the house tends to be dry in the winter. Recently a shower <br /> was installed in the bathroom, which, of course,produces moisture. As soon as <br /> the bathroom door is opened the moisture in the air clears, but a layer of ice <br /> coats the window. If left undisturbed, the moisture from the window dissipates <br /> eventually. <br /> We do not want the window frame to rot, but do not know if it is wise to install <br /> a vent with fan. Could that produce other problems? Would just wiping the <br /> window with a towel be sufficient? What would be the best solution? <br /> Since your moisture problems occur in only one room and are primarily <br /> http://www.commerce.state.mn.us/pages/Energy/InfoCenter/FixIt/fixit04.htm 2/16/O1 <br />