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<br /> ` ': � � + `: �QT.IANGAGOIHAD'ANAPPLEPROBI:EM. .
<br /> . ` , � ' :. � �'; ,Wavenng�in the produce section ofa -..•_' .
<br /> , . .
<br /> . . . ' . . '" Manhattan grocery store,I was unable
<br /> - ':#o decide'between an�organic apple '
<br /> � andanonorganicapple(whichwas
<br /> >,� � �` lalieled corr�rrriorrniti sinc�that
<br /> • i�i,, . AI , .
<br /> - : �soundsbefterthan,�"sprayedv�ntti: .
<br /> g , w£ � , �' �� :� jpeshcides.thatmightlallyou") It
<br /> t , ., � shouldn tha.ve beenatough choi'c.e whq wauts to '• .
<br /> 'i,".: .1::...:( � e�-3� �`..'..♦ . :F.�'t bt�. " . .r .. . .
<br /> . . ..� .
<br /> � ,- - ° �eak' ticide residue?°tiut:the oi
<br /> �z'' P�;., . . .���aPPleshad •
<br /> �' been grown iri Cahforiii.�:-17ie cbnventional ones
<br /> • were`fromriglitlierein`iV�vYorkState:IlniowI've '
<br /> ; � ! beenlisteni.ngtotaomuchrrPftho�useIstarted ' :
<br /> r ` ' wonderingiIiowmuch�MiddleEasternoil�didit
<br /> {•.: . =�k ,. ,take to"ge�Rthat Califomia:apple to me? _
<br /> . : . , g p, _ W1uch farmer should I support—the :
<br /> �
<br /> • �` ,-. � one who r,.,'ected aeshcides m �
<br /> 5 ,. >, � , ... , , R'
<br /> ' • ' � - Caltformaorthe;:rie�vho:was,in'some ;,
<br /> 4 a { r _. .: ,
<br /> �' ' � -'= �.��romanhe's.ense;aneiglibor?Most '�' _.. .
<br /> ` �r. :,� important;dicln t�ttie apple's taste'�. °':
<br /> " � suffer'afterthefruitwascratedarid' �
<br /> refrige'rated azid jostled'for thousands ofmiles2" �
<br /> � ��In tti'e�end Tbought:�both apples.{They were H
<br /> both'good,although ihe California on.e had a ' �
<br /> mealy bit,possibly from its joumey.)It's only Z
<br /> • recently that I had rioticed more locally grown m
<br /> products in the supermarket,but when I got m
<br /> . home I discovered°that the organic-vs.-local m
<br /> debate has become one of'the liveliest in the o
<br /> food world.Last year Wa1-Mart began offering �
<br /> more organic products—those grown without �
<br /> , pesticides,antibiotics,irradiation.and so on— a
<br /> and the big•company's expansion into a once ;
<br /> � '' . " alfernative food culture has been a source of a
<br /> ' � ' ' deep concem,and o
<br /> - . � -s.: p=edictalile-backlash,� '
<br /> ,
<br /> ' ; . among early orgamc' y
<br /> - - r . ` adopters: . . .. ' w
<br /> ,ti'` %. Neazly a quarfer of A
<br /> �
<br /> ' _ . ' Amencan shogpers now m '
<br /> ' �f�&� t �.' � liuy orgaiuc prod`ucts once °
<br /> ' . . y. . � - ' t - . p
<br /> . � ' `.a week;EUp from 17%in 2000:�ut�for food purists, g
<br /> � . ? a� `-"local":is ttiePriew"orgaiuq the:new idgal that�' _
<br /> z � promises healtluer bodies and,a healtluer planet. �
<br /> �'� ' '' "'' - � "' Many chefs,�food wnters and pohticall�min'ded <
<br /> �` 3 ' k- - `` eaters are outraged that.`Big Organic"•firms4now � `-' '
<br /> � _ . �� � ,, use��lie`same industnal`size farnnng and�long•' �
<br /> � . : - . `• ' , =� ' -`chstance'stupping metli�ods as,conventiohal��, m
<br /> r
<br /> r�.` ' ' L �' ` agnbu'siness;"Sho�ltlrI assume that Iihaiie a God= > '
<br /> a ShO�d lt Ue OT g1111C� ' glven,right to access the entire earttis bounty, ; y
<br /> :`
<br /> � Should it be loeall however fart�away some of its produce is grown?" A
<br /> y aslcs ethnobotanist Gary Paul Nabhan in his 2002 =
<br /> grown? Ma�ng sense memoir,Coming Home to Eat:The Pleasures and �
<br /> Politics of Local Foods.Nabhan predicted my
<br /> ' ` Of fOOCl lIl 2��7 apple problem�w�en he vaciIlated over some �
<br /> organic pumplan canned hundreds of miles from N
<br /> ' By john Clou:d lus Arizona home "Ifiyou send it halfway around =
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