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( <br />4P <br />( <br />y. NUMBER .\ND DISTRIBUTION. As explained <br />above, your dugout should be near an existing shallow <br />marsh for brood-rearing purposes. If you have ad ­ <br />equate space and funding, you can consider digging <br />more than one dugout. In general, two closely-spaced <br />small dugouts will receive more use than one larger <br />dugout. If you construct more than one pond, space <br />them about 100 to 300 feet apart. Ponds can be closer <br />if tall vegetation screens the ponds from each other <br />(breeding ducks are territorial and won’t tolerate oth­ <br />ers of the same species if the\’ can see them). <br />6. ISLANDS. Dugouts less than two acres are too <br />small to include an island. As an alternative vou can <br />use nest baskets, boxes or floating rafts for nesting. A <br />floating log. anchored in place, provides an excellent <br />site for waterfowl and turtle loafing. See our brochure <br />entitled “iArtificial Structures for W aterfowl.” <br />7. SPOIL. Excavating a pond means you end up with <br />a lot of soil removed from the dugout: this is called <br />“spoil.” Spoil must be carefully dealt with to optimize <br />waterfowl use. In peat soils and cattail-choked wet­ <br />lands, you should remove the spoil from the wetland <br />if at all possible. zVgain, check with the appropriate <br />agencies (see list at end) to determine if you need a <br />permit. <br />In mineral soils, the top 6"-1 2" will probably be black <br />topsoil, high in organic matter. This should be saved <br />separately for later spreading over the excavated bot­ <br />tom. The underlying nonorganic soils (clays, sands, <br />etc.) should be moved to an upland site and spread <br />evenly. It is important that this material be removed <br />from the wetland basin and not piled adjacent the <br />dugout. The edge of the dugout should not have a <br />discernible “rim”; that is. the slope should be continu­ <br />ous below and above the water surface, as shown in the <br />cross-section in figure 2. <br />Finally, all disturbed uplands and spread spoil should <br />be seeded to native grasses for a minimum of 1 SO feet <br />around the dugout. This will provide w aterfowl cover, <br />minimize weed growth, and prevent sedimentation <br />within the basin. Providing 4 acres of upland nesting <br />cover for each acre of wetland is best for duck produc­ <br />tion. Do not plant trees near your dugout; these ser\e <br />as predator perches and dens, and will reduce water- <br />fowl use. Use nest boxes to attract wood ducks. <br />Remember to get any necessars' permits before vou <br />start digging! <br />8. FINAL TRFAT.MENT. Theclavand sand under- <br />lying most mineral soils arc vcr>- sterile and won’t <br />support plant growth. In order to establish a food <br />chain in your dugout, you must provide an organic <br />base. This can be accomplished by spreau.ng 4"-6" of <br />black topsoil over the entire excavated area. 7 his can <br />be the topsoil you originally removed (and stockpiled) <br />from the site when you started digging. zVnother <br />technique is to spread 2"-6 ” of clean upland hay over <br />the excavated surface (wild hay can spread noxious <br />weeds). Both can be used simultaneously. Once <br />covered with water, either of these bases will quickly <br />allow vegetation and insects to grow, providing the <br />building blocks for a desirable marsh. Don’t worry <br />about planting aquatic plants in your basin - they will <br />establish themselves naturally in time, given a suitable <br />site. <br />20 <br />Feet <br />. • <br />.. . ^ I. .- f.;. <br />Figure 2. Crois-section of pond bottom shotving smooth, f <br />shallow gradt at waterline, and undulating bottom contours. ^ '