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The Exterior <br /> i • A hive stand will keep the hive 4-6" off the ground so the colony stays dry. Hive stands that enclose the <br /> entire perimeter of the bottom board create dead air space underneath the hive that helps insulate the <br /> colony in the winter. The hive stand should be made of treated wood or be well painted to avoid rotting. <br /> Cement blocks or bricks also make a good hive stand. <br /> • Bottom boards provide the floor for the hive with space for bees to enter and exit. <br /> • An entrance reducer allows you to make the hive entrance smaller or larger as needed. The entrance is <br /> diminished when installing a new package or preparing a colony for winter; it is widened during summer. <br /> • 10-frame Langstroth deep hive bodies (9 5/8") are used as brood chambers, where the nurse bees will <br /> raise the new bees and honey is stored for winter. We recommend drilling a 1" hole (centered 3" above <br /> bottom edge) on the front side of each deep hive body. Use metal rabbets where the frames hang <br /> inside the box to protect the wood from scraping. If you are worried about lifting heavy boxes (deeps <br /> full of honey can be up to 90 Ib) you can use medium (6 5/8") boxes for hive bodies. You will just need <br /> to use more boxes so you have the same volume. Visit Z.umn.edu/Medium for more information. While <br /> less common, 8-frame Langstroth equipment can also work well and is lighter to lift. If you are worried <br /> about hive weight, a beekeeping partner can help move heavy boxes.Another strategy is to remove <br /> individual honey frames, move the box, then put the frames back in once the box is moved. <br /> • An inner cover is used to provide a bee space above the frames so the bees do not"propolize" (glue) the <br /> cover down. <br /> • A telescoping cover is the final cover for the colony. It telescopes over the top so it doesn't slide off. It <br /> usually has a metal top to keep out the rain. <br /> • You will need corks to plug the 1" holes in the hive bodies during some periods of the season. Keep <br /> hive bodies corked if there are no bees occupying the box or the frames of foundation have not been <br /> drawn out with wax comb yet. If you have corks lying around that are smaller than 1", drill the holes in <br /> the boxes to fit those corks. <br /> 410 <br /> The Interior <br /> • To begin, you will need 10 frames (9 1/8") for each 10-frame deep hive body. If you purchase frames <br /> that require assembly, we recommend self-spacing frames with grooved top and bottom bars.As <br /> the bees fill the frames with wax comb, you may later switch to 9 frames per box.Assembled frames <br /> are available, but they can cost a little more than unassembled frames. One benefit of purchasing <br /> assembled frames is that any frames that break during assembly, which can happen, will be at the <br /> expense of the supplier. <br /> • You will need foundation for each frame in the hive. The bees will build comb without foundation but the <br /> foundation encourages them to build comb in the middle of the frame, acts as supporting material, and <br /> reduces the amount of beeswax the bees need to produce. Some of the first foundation was made of <br /> solid beeswax, and then wire was added to give the comb support. This support allowed the wax comb <br /> in the frames to survive the honey extracting machines without damage. Next, foundation was made of <br /> thin plastic and beeswax was added to both sides with the imprint of hexagonal cells pressed into the <br /> wax. Now most foundation is made of thick plastic that has the base of the hexagonal cell formed in it, <br /> and it is sprayed with a light coat of beeswax (Figure 22). We have found that this coating of beeswax <br /> on the plastic foundation is important to the bees. If there is insufficient wax, the bees can be reluctant <br /> to build comb on it. Foundation can come in light or dark colors. Eggs are easier to spot on the darker <br /> foundation. <br /> • Some beekeepers prefer to have the bees build "natural" comb, meaning comb with no foundation. The <br /> problem with natural comb is it is not very strong when held in a horizontal position. If you want to be <br /> able to turn the frame sideways or upside down (to look for eggs or see the other side of the frame) you <br /> will have to add some support. This support is one of the important purposes of the foundation. You can <br /> add support without using foundation by adding three 1/8"wood dowels from the top bar to the bottom <br /> bar of the frames, and the bees will build comb around them. The other purpose of the foundation is <br /> to encourage the bees to build comb within the frame, instead of across frames. To encourage bees to <br /> build comb within a frame without using foundation, you can fill the groove in the top bar with beeswax <br /> or popsicle sticks. Another method is to make the top bar of the frame v-shaped at the bottom so the <br /> bees follow the line when building comb. <br /> Beekeeping in Northern Climates 21 <br />