10-18-2021 Planning Commission Packet

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PREFACE S WHAT'S NEW IN THE SECOND EDITION? Sheltering in place in 2020 presented us with an opportunity to update our Beekeeping in Northern Climates manual. You'll find new formatting, sharp photos and fun vignettes connecting the logic behind particular management techniques to the biology of honey bees in northern climates. We made only one noteworthy change to recommended beekeeping practices. To explain that change, a little background is helpful. If you are brand new to beekeeping, the explanation in the next paragraph may not make sense just yet, but it will make sense after you read this manual. When Marla and Gary took over this course from Dr. Basil Furgala in 1993, they decided to adopt and adhere to his management strategy called the "Horizontal Two-Queen System." This system involves starting with a package of bees in Year 1, and letting the colony grow into three deep brood boxes. The third box is like an insurance policy for bees and beekeepers, as it contains sufficient honey stores for the colony to survive our long winters. The following spring, the surviving colony is divided, making two colonies from one. Properly timed divides prevent swarming and losing half the bees to the trees. The new colony is called a "divide" and sits apart from the "parent" colony (the Horizontal part), and a new queen is introduced into the divide while the original queen remains in the parent (the Two-Queen part). The divide is allowed to grow into three deep brood boxes to survive the winter while the parent colony is kept in only two deep boxes. Keeping a colony in two brood boxes results in more honey for the beekeeper to harvest but doesn't ensure that the bees will have enough honey to survive the winter. During the second winter, the two colonies essentially become one again because the parent dies off. We encouraged beekeepers to "let the parent colony go" over winter, which, although a sound beekeeping practice, didn't sit well with many new beekeepers. In this Second Edition, we recommend trying to keep both the parent and the divide alive by allowing both to grow into three deep brood boxes. We offer strategies for approaching the "good problem" that may occur if more colonies survive the winter than your apiary size, time and pocketbook allow.All other recommended management practices are the same as in the First Edition of our manual. Before the 1990's, colony losses over the winter were generally 15-20%. In 1987, a major problem was inadvertently introduced into the U.S.: the parasite mite Varroa destructor. This mite, and the viruses it vectors from bee to bee, considerably diminish honey bee health and colony longevity. Current annual losses across the U.S. average 30-40%. Backyard beekeepers in Minnesota are experiencing 50-60% losses. To beat the odds, it now makes sense to try to keep both the parent and divide alive. We strongly encourage all new beekeepers in areas with long winters to follow the guidelines in this book closely for the first two years before trying alternative methods (we offer one alternative in Appendix A). Our tried-and-true management practices follow the natural biology and life cycle of honey bees. We encourage all beekeepers to become familiar with the floral resources (trees, bushes, and flowers) that provide nectar and pollen to bees from early spring through fall. Good nutrition is key to good colony health. Knowing the flowers that bloom within two miles of your colony will foster an appreciation for how the local landscape affects the health and welfare of your bees. Possibly less fun than learning about the flowers in your area, you will also need to learn about the life cycle of the parasitic Varroa mite and to study common honey bee diseases. Your colony will need some help controlling the parasitic mite and possibly some diseases; learning to identify problems is the first step. Our philosophy is that beekeepers should apply as few medications as possible in bee colonies, and only when truly necessary. Please stay current with our latest recommendations for keeping bees healthy in our manual, Honey Bee Diseases and Pests, an essential companion to this manual. We update the Diseases and Pests manual frequently, so take the time to download the most current version. Beekeeping is an art, a craft, and a science. It takes years of hands-on experience to understand the ebbs IDand flows of the bee life cycle and corresponding management practices. The best thing you can do to make sure your new beekeeping adventure is a success is to join a beekeeping association or apprentice with an experienced and successful beekeeper. Most importantly of all, listen closely to the bees and the lessons they teach us. Beekeeping in Northern Climates 1