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10-18-2021 Planning Commission Packet
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10-18-2021 Planning Commission Packet
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To Cork or Not to Cork, That is the Question <br /> • <br /> Whenever I was talking management with the Minnesota Hobby Beekeepers <br /> ►. Association, Tom would always raise his hand and ask "Gary, what do we do <br /> with the corks?" The other question was, "Why drill a hole if you are just going <br /> to cork it up?" <br /> Words of The main reason to drill the hole in the box is to give the colony an upper <br /> entrance in the top box for winter. Since we never know for sure which box will <br /> Wisdom be on top for winter we put holes in all the boxes. It seems the bees "enjoy" the <br /> holes in the other boxes during the summer but we do not want the lower holes <br /> open in winter because mice can enter them. <br /> For winter, the hole in the top box should be open and the remainder of the <br /> holes should have corks. <br /> For spring and summer the holes can be left open unless: 1) the bees are <br /> not occupying the box, or 2) the frames in the box contain foundation without <br /> beeswax comb. <br /> If in doubt, leave the corks in the holes in spring and summer. <br /> Inspections from late summer through fall <br /> Here is your checklist for summer and fall inspections: <br /> • Look for worker eggs, larvae, and pupae. You do not need to see the queen if you see worker eggs. <br /> Remember, you can differentiate between eggs that will be workers and those that will be drones by the <br /> size of the wax cells; drone eggs are laid in slightly larger cells. <br /> • Assess the quantity of stored pollen and honey. There should be pollen stored on the edges of the <br /> brood nest. If no pollen is stored in the height of summer, then the area probably has very poor floral <br /> resources. The colony should have lots of honey stored by the height of summer, far above the <br /> minimum of two frames of honey. If this is not the case, feed 2:1 sugar syrup. Summer colonies should <br /> be heavy with food stores, or they will not be prepared to survive winter. <br /> • Look for queen cells, but leave the cells alone. The bees know more than the beekeeper about why <br /> they might need a new queen; trust them. <br /> • Look for the presence of adult drones and drone brood. As in spring, be on the lookout for an excess of <br /> drones. After the main honey flow and as fall approaches, fewer drones will be produced. In late fall, the <br /> remaining drones will be kicked out of the colony by the worker bees. <br /> • Check to see if the bees have enough room to grow. You should add hive bodies when the current top <br /> box is 80% filled and occupied with bees. If you find nectar stored in the brood nest area, it is a sure <br /> sign that your bees are too crowded and the queen has run out of space to lay eggs. Ensuring your <br /> bees have ample space during nectar flows is essential to avoid late season swarming. Once your bees <br /> have filled the three deeps, you can begin adding supers as described below. <br /> • Monitor your colony for varroa mites each month to assess their population growth. Consult your <br /> Disease and Pest manual for mite population thresholds and methods to keep their populations below <br /> • threshold. <br /> Beekeeping in Northern Climates 43 <br />
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